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Yesterday evening brought one of those moments. We were playing backgammon, looking over the fjord to Svartisen glacier, when the sea began to boil in immense circles. This was followed by a festival of leaping predatory fish – I’m presuming salmon, and then, to cap it, a sea eagle takes flight and stoops for a catch. Seagulls didn’t let it get away too easily though, and mobbed it back to shore. Between the glacier, the ripple free fjord with its reflections of mountains and ice… wow!

We’ve taken advantage of an absolutely stunning morning – blue skies, temperatures up to 16°C, no wind … to do a bit of cycling. So we’ve packed up at our amazing free site overlooking the Svartisen glacier, and driven 11km to Halsa. Parked at the church, took the bikes down, and did a 60km loop down to Vassdalsvik, which is another little ferry station in an area simply littered with them. The area is marked as an outstanding Natural Landscape, and was well worth the effort.

Got back to the van a little knackered, then took off for our 10 minute ferry ride from Forøy to Ågskardet, another 2 km and we are now parked off next to a lovely lake and, again, all by ourselves. This stretch has been so much quieter than the Lofotens, and none of the jostling for sites that characterised some afternoons there.

Rain forecast for the next few days which will determine a bit as to what is planned. Definitely some caving at Mo I Rana, with a walk or two, and perhaps some rafting a little further south – although at these costs 1 out of 2 is pretty good! Meantime, the Navigator stays two-dimensionally tuned:

Last – I knew Border Collies were clever, but this is ridiculous!