Austria!!

A wonderful and stress free day spent travelling under a blue sky, no wind, great roads (albeit very busy), with fantastic views of the approaching Austrian Alps – enjoyed more by the Navigator than me. Hmmm, trying to overtake slower trucks (yes, there are slower vehicles on the road, Devon) while keeping an eye on the rearview mirror for cars coming up behind at 200km/h does make for a need to keep focused. In any case, passing by beautiful scenery, all while the GPS was actually positively engaged , made for a change from some previous days.

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Not much time to do anything else today as we had a pretty late start. Ahhh – I really do enjoy lying in bed as the traffic builds after 5:00am 🙂 We are currently parked in a municipal parking lot behind Salzburg’s sport arena and next to a supermarket. Free Wi-Fi in the town! Honestly, why can’t everyone get this right (here’s looking at you, Taunton!) This will make life so much easier tomorrow when Niki has (another) Skype interview with her new school as they have encouraged her to apply for a team leadership position. This gives her a morning to get her head back into the classroom, lunchtime interview, and then we’ll take a slow walk into the old town 3km away. Really looking forward to visiting the salt mines – If you have an opportunity to read Salt by Mark Kurlansky it will make you want to visit every salt production area possible.

IMG_5425.JPGSo, settling in for the evening, Nachos on the menu together with more wine – eventually have to die from something – and then settling in to watch one of the many downloaded series we haven’t gotten round to watching. Oh, and hoping the Austrians don’t arrive at shopping malls too early in the morning. However, at €2.50 for 24 hours we will not be complaining!IMG_5427.JPG

A Short, but Eventful Trip.

The weather forecast proved somewhat accurate, with gale force winds through the evening. Our stopover proved to be quite protected and, with little traffic passing by, we had a pretty good night’s sleep. Woke to the wind picking up strength, but, with no real concerns (apart from our fresh water tank dripping), we set off to our anticipated stop around 260km away – no rush!

Blizzard conditions … for me in any case.

Almost immediately the rain started lashing down, soon turning to sleet, and then to driving snow. Traffic crawled along at 30km/h, apart from those doing 50 and those doing 10! Remembering that any similar weather simply shuts the UK down completely, it was still no surprise to see a veritable armada of snow ploughs and various salt & grit spreaders looming through the gloom. However, with no real time constraints we decided to cut the day short upon reaching Ravensburg, a distance of … 25km!

And a good thing we did too. Lovely old town characterized by towers, semi-pedestrian inner town, and the usual amazing coffee houses. Having made a deal that, with the next flurry we would duck in and have a cozy coffee, that’s just what we did. No downsides here!

So, a leisurely time spent in the town necessitated an afternoon nap – we are still recovering from a 12 hour time difference (and 30 degree temperature difference), but can’t quite sync that we both collapse at the same time. Not bad though, with sun coming out, birds warbling in the hedges around the van etc.

Trying to sort the dripping water tank led us to empty our supply in order to clean and grease the valves. Drove a few meters to the dumping station, emptied what little water we had, paid our €1 for 100 liters of water to find … there was no water. As it’s now dark we head off to the nearest gas station to find there facilities are closed until the end of March. This proved to be very common and explains why we are staying for free in our Stellplatz. Eventually found a nice person at the next garage who opened her car wash for us to fill up with water… and that might even be drinking water, time will tell.

So back to camp, settled down to cheese and biscuits, good wine and a movie – we might even push along a little faster tomorrow. Oh, and leak seems to have disappeared …

On The Road Again – Bodensee

It really is great to be in the van again – driving, albeit on a different side of the road felt almost natural after 3 months of driving on the left in NZ. Van started first time and everything is in good nick, thanks to Susi and family, and having the solar panel charging things while we were away has worked really well.

On the road to Austria, via the Bodensee (or Lake Constance in English) has been a really nice drive, over the hills, covered in snow, between Staufen and Friedrichshafen. Still feeling groggy we cut the drive short and are currently camped in amongst apple and pear orchards not far from the lake – and fairly protected from a really strong wind.

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Birnau Basilica

At the lake, having stopped at Birnau Basilica, the wind was a strong gale force, and the prediction for tomorrow is that it increases to between 120 and 150km/h. We’ve had experience of this when cycling around the lake a few years ago, when the wind gusted to 160+km/h, resulting in a number of deaths.

 

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Bodensee

We are currently back to old habits, with Niki insisting on opening our new cask of wine. Heater has made us toasty warm, hot water for showers is underway, crisp breads and a range of cheeses and salami on the menu for dinner … We’ve missed this (and no offence to all those great people who have looked after us over the past three months).

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Overlooking Bodensee and the Alps in background
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Gorgeous drive through Southern Germany

A steady leak out of our fresh water container is raising some concern, so if we can get to a campervan outlet tomorrow we’ll have this looked at. At this stage, though, having been awake since 1:00am following a 12 hour jet lag difference, we are looking forward to sleeping through the night. Not going to happen, but a good goal nevertheless. Soon to settle down to a movie and dinner, rain starting to fall – oh, this is so much better than camping!

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Home for the night

And They’re Back…

 

So here we are back in Staufen, Germany, after 3 months back in New Zealand. The trip to NZ, a little unexpected, was a great opportunity to meet up with old friends and to meet new ones. We were also able to stay with our kids & son-in-law in our house – bought in 2008 but never actually seen … What a summer, with the hottest NZ summer on record following the wettest December on record in Hamilton, with loads of opportunities for extended work around the garden etc. Even got down to Raglan a few times to get into the surf. A big thanks to the kids for putting up with us for 3 months, to the Stevenson’s and Mike, Amanda, and our new neighbours, the Birnies.

Jump ahead to departure, Auckland airport – this after catching the 5:30am shuttle from Hamilton. Get in to the airport just after bus loads of folks returning home on China Southern, bound for Guangzhou. Much later, get to the check-in counter to find that having a desktop computer in the suitcase took us well over the limit. Take computer out, off to the bag-wrapping guy who does a great job. Back to the counter to be met with the dreaded question: ‘Where is your onward journey or return ticket?’ AAARGHH! So after lots of hand-wringing and the involvement of a supervisor it seems that Frankfurt doesn’t really care if you come in on a one way ticket. Heads up for all the illegal migrants out there …

12 hours to Guangzhou was just the start. No problems with the airline, the stewardesses were great … But! There is this ongoing issue of males with unbounded self-confidence but short penises that result wet floors in toilets. Not pointing fingers at any particular group or nationality …. Not really …..

Then, 4 hour layover in Guanghzou which went something like this: Disembark, proceed through X-ray machine with luggage. Queue for immigration. Get to head of queue, move to new immgration counter as we have to have an entry permit … (I promise I’m not leaving the airport in the 2 hours left before boarding ….) Passport taken away for entry visa, passport returned half-hour later with no visa. Queue for new immigration counter, get visa. Proceed to Arrivals. Queue behind 600 people putting bags through 2 (2!!) X-Ray machines. Proceed to Departures via Arrivals (I know, I know – not really logical). New X-Ray machine. Passport check. New X-Ray machine and pat down. Wait in Departures. Next passport check. 15 minutes until plane departs – Who knew time would fly by so quickly? 4 hours of sheer bliss…. Followed by 1 hour flight to Changsha – more X-Rays and passport checks, followed by 11 hours to Frankfurt, more difficult passport questions – ho hum, illegal again.

So here we are, Saturday night with Susi and family, with the Van packed and ready, sort of, to head off Sunday morning.

Where to?

Well, big change of plans. The intent was always to head off to Morocco. That’s changed. Blogs etc from Morocco travellers indicate the expected degree of beauty & chaos – I think we are going to be experiencing pretty much the same in Angola. So, quick change in plans sees us heading off to Austria on Sunday, followed by Slovenia, Italy, Greece, back to Italy and then Sardinia, back to mainland, and then reunite with our household goods in France before we send that back to NZ, with a detour to an Angolan embassy somewhere in Europe for the necessary visas to start August at least on the correct continent. This may well explain why my finger had a tic when on Amazon yesterday, resulting in a 4 bottle order of whiskey which, fortunately, arrived this morning.

So, as we head off, again, the one certainty is that the immediate future looks entirely unpredictable. Another drink, Sir?

Oh, yes please!

 

St Malo … Last Post?

It’s been a very busy couple of days, and that’s a limited excuse for not keeping up with posts, but Life does get in the way.

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Baguettes and no toilet seats – must be France

First Up: This will be our last post for the next 4 months as we return to New Zealand. We’ve got the opportunity to return and sort out some family things that are overdue, and which require us to be there. We’ll be flying to Auckland next Thursday, and, with a bit of luck, we’ll be back in Europe and on the road in the first week in March.

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St Malo ferry – this guy has no problems parking a car in tight spots!

Second: Niki’s had interviews with two schools and, clever girl, got offers from both. As a result we’ll be off to Angola in the new school year, July. That gives us a fixed window to work with … Morocco is still on the cards! Because of the multiple interview schedule we’ve slowed down this past week in order to have Niki focus on these rather than on navigation. We would not have like the resetting of our GPS to reflect schools rather than campsites.

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11th C Chateau & fortifications, Domfronts

Third: We’ve had a great few days on what was essentially a detour round to St Malo while we made travel arrangements etc. What a great detour it’s been. Mont St Michel was great, St Malo was as enjoyable as before, and, as we’ve skipped toll roads, the drive today has taken us along some secondary roads that really allow you to capture the sense of countryside.

We are currently parked on a forestry road on the way to Versailles. While driving, and a bit spur-of-the-moment, we stopped in Domfront (another town I bet Marthe-Sophie has not visited). Delightful, and provided some context for a book I’m currently reading, The Forge of Christendom by Tom Holland. He writes of the terror spread in the 10th C as the power of the Frankish kings diminished and the centre could not hold. The consequence was that anyone bloodthirsty and wealthy enough built, very rapidly, a small fortification (motte or donjon), staffed it with armoured thugs, then raped, pillaged and extorted the countryside. Doing this successfully meant more money, more armoured thugs (cnights, or knights) etc in a cycle of brutality. The conclusion of the process was an overlord class supported by church and legal system, and a pauper, serf class, herded into villages like pork ready for the slaughter. Looking at the fortified buildings of the chateau, and following its construction history, from wooden fortification to stone, to walls capable of withstanding the new gunpowder technology, one should be cognisant of the terror instilled in the local population, whose history will never, unfortunately, be told.

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Domfronts

 

The Chapel of Saint-Julian was completely unexpected. Built in 1924 in Byzantine style, the church works. The church structure is supported by large semi-circular concrete arches and, lacking supporting columns, creates a great sense of space and proportion. Even the mural of Christ in the rounded nave is in keeping with the theme, even though created in 1928 – hmmm, a lesson for some would-be restorers or innovators, such as my mural friend in Denmark.

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Domfronts: Saint Julian Chapel

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Interior of this delightful Byzantine style church

Tomorrow we are off to Versailles, but I’m unsure if I’ll be posting from after today. If not – well, hope to see you back in March. For us, 4 months has flown by and we are nowhere close to feeling like we want this to end …

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Hope the wind doesn’t blow too much tonight – leaves landing on the roof sound really loud!!