Navigation: A Daily Chore

Spare a thought for poor Niki. No sooner has she mastered Italian in order to find our way down the boot, but now she has to master a new alphabet AND language – and a new Navi system. More on that shortly.

So, how do we get around? Before starting on our trip I spent some time plotting on Google what seemed to be a reasonable itinerary from Switzerland to the UK, quick swing across France, Germany, Denmark, a rapid drive through Sweden to eventually arrive at our destination of Norway, or, specifically, Narvik. In this I had tremendous help through using websites of travellers who have, almost on a daily basis, blogged their experiences. Quite naturally, perhaps, we tended to stick, there or thereabouts, to campsites / parking spots that others had recommended or used. As we became more comfortable we tended to find more of our own out-of-the-way spots. We weren’t particularly fussy, so roadsides, train stations and supermarkets have featured quite heavily, so too forests and harbours. Our navigation system in the van spat the dummy early in the trip – it’s occasionally recovered, but all in all, pretty bloody useless. It doesn’t help that we have maps from 2012, that the system itself is clunky and slow, nor that error (out of memory) notes just shut the system down, including the CD player, Bluetooth, radio and iPod (yes, I still have a number of those).

We’ve really had no planning for Greece, apart from knowing we would do the Peloponnese peninsula, and not rush. Again, using other blogs has given us a brief overview of some beautiful places to see. So, planning looks like this: We (Niki, mostly) decides on the next key spot. We check for distances and then look up the place using our home MiFi (10Gb per month). Niki refers to a very useful app: Park4Night. This app is free (Thank You), but if you want to use it offline it costs €9.99 per year. The app marks, on a local map, different categories of places to stay: Free stops, paid stops (sometimes campsites, sometimes stops with services, including Aires in France and Stellplatz in Germany), the types of services available, dumping services along the way, laybyes and forest stops, beaches etc. The information is generated by users and generally very accurate, with comments being especially helpful. The GPS coordinates have proven to be very accurate.

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Next to a pick your own berry farm
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Overnight at a pub: ‘Camperstop’ app
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Parking lot, Carrefour
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Oak forest – bad choice in wind
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Public parking at the beach

This info is now put into our Samsung tablet, taking the place of the absolutely useless Pioneer (you can tell we’ve had issues!). Niki recently purchased CoPilot (€15 per annum) which allows us to enter the van dimensions. So far this has been helpful in preventing us from going down teeny roads, or under bridges <2.8 m high (my nightmare). Of course, no software is going to account for parking in Greece that sees drivers park 3 deep while going to the shop …  Really important here is that CoPilot runs offline once you have downloaded the relevant regional maps for the country you are in. This has also been manageable on MiFi as the maps are not huge (but still very detailed and up to date – so far).

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Our Overnight stops

(On the navigation bar go to Travels / Our Trip Mapped and click on ‘here‘. All our overnight stops, with photos and comments are there.)

A very helpful British couple have also given us all their pins on Maps.Me. They spent 5 months in Greece, so not short of marked spots! In addition, they have added pins from other travellers they’ve met, so, at this point, we have a huge range of possibilities. Now if the weather just played along we could really make use of those pins at beaches.

We remain limited to less than three days without any services – if we had a spare toilet cassette this would be extended, but not possible in our little van. Water is good for three days (daily showers for both of us) and our waste water has never been an issue. Electricity has also not been an issue as our single 100W solar panel just keeps giving. Even with charging a computer at night and using as much lighting as we wish we never approach our limit. Gas has also been much better now that it’s warmer and we don’t have the heater going all day. I expect our 2 x 11kg gas bottles to last around 5 weeks, and at €30 a fill, who cares?

OOOH – Just had to share this!! We are having sliced boiled eggs on salad for dinner tonight and, after battling with shelling eggs for ever, Niki has just shown me this: Crack and peel the top of the egg, do the same for the bottom – now just push the egg out from top to bottom – the shell comes off like a sock! Ha – if we learn something new every day … Hmmm – perhaps some caution with soft-boiled eggs!!

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GREECE!

White sandy beaches fronting shimmering turquoise water – Greece!

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Not quite the anticipated Greece … yet!

Maybe tomorrow. Today the rain is hosing down, giving us intermittent views across the bay and of the surrounding hillsides, the temperature is a gooseflesh inducing 12°, with a breeze that drops the temperature even further. She’ll be right, though, at some point.

 

 

Our last day in Italy, Bari, tried hard to impress us with the more fluid driving style adopted by southern Italians, and, no doubt, an effort to prepare us for Greece. I was, completely, unprepared for cars passing us, in the face of turning traffic, on red lights, and not once, but almost every red light – no, not orange, RED. My best example was of a young mother (I surmise) with young kids (no seatbelts) driving towards us, through a red light, realising she was on the wrong side of the road (i.e. head on towards me), breaking and losing control, coming to an undignified halt across the intersection. I smiled and gave her a wave as she attempted to merge with her side of the traffic again – I really am trying this Zen approach to driving.

We were going to visit a few sights in Bari, but the weather was grim, and we’d already done our touristy stuff in Trani (see below) so we decided to get to the port earlier for our ferry across to Patras, Greece. Just as well, as the ticket seller informed us that we bought the last campervan ticket! Later, on a very empty ferry, I wondered how that was possible – but for a while we felt good about the decision. Getting on to the ferry was a very un-Norwegian type process. No lanes, only two roads which, of course, came to the gate from opposing sides, necessitating that kind of collegial ‘one from that side, one from this side’ type of entry through a restricted gate that characterize Switzerland, for example. This is not Switzerland.

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Ferry costs were €437, return, for the two of us + campervan. Niki’s budget calculator immediately burst into tears, informing us this was 387% over budget, and that it was going to shut down if we continued this irresponsible behaviour. The ferry was an absolute joy, allowing us to hook the van into the 220V socket, giving us electricity. We could also sleep in the van, and it also became a great refuge as a group of 100 Italian students took over the lounge. Italian teachers are to be admired for the way in which they, chameleon-like, just merge into the background, avoiding all interaction with their charges… So, after a beer, we retired to the comfort of the van. Given that we were on a semi-sheltered deck with low sides we are able to see the passing islands as we sped towards Patras. 18 hours of this – not bad!

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Earlier in the day we had taken a walk through the old town of Trani, after spending a somewhat restful night in an open lot opposite the official campsite. I say somewhat because there was a constant stream of very quiet cars proceeding past us to the water’s edge, about 20 meters past us – no doubt to engage in deep and meaningful discussions of Byzantine versus Gothic church architecture, or Byron versus Yates. In any case, an uneventful night. Our walk through town was just lovely, with winding streets, the smallest of town squares, a working old town harbour, and a magnificent Basilica.

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We entered the Basilica – I was a little disappointed, but Niki enjoyed the low roof, the multitude of columns and the sense of intimacy that this engendered. Following a sign pointing upstairs we arrived in … the Basilica – and it was stunning. Downstairs was just the crypt (Saint Nicholas the Pilgrim, AD 1094) – well, live a little, learn a lot! The Basilica is characterized by a very narrow nave, accentuating the unbelievably high ceiling – I just couldn’t get a shot that would adequately capture this.

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So that was Italy, for the time being. Really enjoyed our time there, and looking forward to the next instalment of our travel year too.

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€3.50 wine cooling naturally
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Campsite Trani – Birds!!!

Gargano Promontory

A longer (nowadays) drive down the East coast brought us to the Gargano Promontory – this is the spur jutting out into the Adriatic, about 150km North of Bari. Really glad to be here in the off season as the roads are something …

We’ve had two days at the old town of Rodi Garganico, comfortably camped at the marina at the foot of the old town – until asked to move today, but very politely done. Moved all of 50 meters to a level spot with the beach stretching out in front of us. An older guy approached us a while ago to inform us that overnighting was €10, but I had a bit of a giggle and told him, in my best Italian, You’re taking a chance, Mate. Price duly came down to €5, then €3, but I think you lose your authority when you have no authority and then negotiate downwards. In any case, at this stage it’s free …

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The town itself requires a walk up steep streets, but again, as we are the only ones here, we took our time, were suitably impressed at why someone would actually build like this, and thoroughly enjoyed the afternoon.

Today saw us up at the crack of dawn and an energetic early start – well, could have been, but Niki dawdled again. Still, a great cycle along the coast towards Peschici, again built on a cliff side. Taking the bikes around town was definitely a wise move, and we got to see all sorts of interesting things as we were, again, quite obviously lost! In these hillside towns, though, gravity is a powerful indicator, and it’s not long before we are seated and having the best croissant ever, overlooking a beautifully blue Adriatic.

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Home, on the Adriatic Coast

The wind has come up a bit since we returned, and there’s a chance of rain – Oh, so glad it’s not a tent!

Rimini, heading South

Our first stop after Ravenna was at Rimini, all of 28km, and allowed us to really take it easy, have a slow walk through town, and see some of the amazing sights. I should point out that Rimini has got some seriously old stuff, including the oldest remaining bridge and town entry arch in existence from the Roman Empire. The old town is appropriately compact and easy to navigate on foot. Again, it was amazing to wander past ongoing archaeological sites, such as the Surgeon’s Residence, preserved after the Hunnic sacking of Rimini in the 5th C by its own collapsed walls and roof. Our campsite was also only 15 minutes walk from the beach … and on the track of the Rimini Marathon held on Saturday – Absolute chaos getting out of the town, with Google making some odd decisions that underestimate the size of the van, compensating by over estimating its sense of my driving ability! On average, then, we’re OK.

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Niki at the entry arch of Augustus, 27 BC, Rimini
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Pope Paul, V, 1614.
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Roman Arched bridge, AD14

Last two nights have been spent in a very relaxed (soporific horizontal) campsite, 10 horizontal meters from the sea, but 80 vertical meters down a somewhat irregular path (hmmm – that’s a very optimistic description). Had the opportunity to show the hundreds of Italian cyclists battling up 16% climbs that we were made of sterner stuff, bumping up our battery output on our e-bikes significantly in the process. To be honest, still couldn’t catch the majority who were on road bikes. Did watch one guy take his mountain bike up a path I’m not sure I could have walked. Having had years of cycling with crazy Italians I completed the day with ego still intact.

Today we are at Loreto. I had no idea this town existed, so excuse the complete ignorance as I relate the following. The Basilica here is the site of an annual 4 MILLION visitors. What for, you may ask? Well, housed in a marble encasement, which in turn forms the focus of the interior of the basilica itself (you picturing those Russian dolls that fit inside each other?), is an interesting structure. This is the home of Mary (yes, that Mary) transported from Palestine, via a few intermediary stops, including Croatia, arriving in Loreto as the last Crusaders were driven out of Palestine (1295). In order to prevent the holy site from being taken by victorious Muslim forces, four angels transported the house in a single night… Beyond my credulity, but the annual pilgrimage continues. Saint’s bones, relics, and brickwork remain an important source of income.

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On a less cynical note, and understanding that all major faiths are masters of manipulation and propaganda, I would point out what a marvellous experience this was. You can literally feel the devotion of people as they enter the Basilica and pass through the brick house. The interior of the Basilica, of course, lends itself to this by keeping the nave fairly simple (apart from unbelievable mosaics that far exceed the colour and definition of most Medieval paintings) with the focus on the marble encasement and surrounding cupola. There was a service being held, accompanied by the chants and songs that brought home the incredible acoustics and attendant atmosphere that result in the trance-like state that seems to be the goal of all religious institutions – and not a few secular ones too (hello, Mao).

 

Tomorrow we hope to visit the local Aeronautical Museum – I’m a little worried that this may focus heavily on the 4 angels mentioned earlier, rather than Italy’s rich mechanical heritage (yes, Fiat produced a number of fighter planes – some were even better than the Fiat Panda – a car that should have been strangled at birth). Let’s see what the day brings. Tonight we are a camper stop just below the Basilica, overlooking the Adriatic. Perched on top of a hill (I almost resorted to prayer coming up some of the roads) gives us a glorious view of the Basilica, the plains below, and the Adriatic in the background – all in Spring’s delightful blue sky. How lucky can you get?

Ravenna

I think that those days when you don’t expect too much (not in a negative way, but not every day is perfect) and then get hit by a bit of a joyous surprise are … uplifting. I wasn’t expecting too much from Ravenna based, it must be said, on my complete ignorance of the city. I knew it had some history (it was, at one stage, the capital of the Western Roman Empire) and was associated with a critical period when Rome split into an Eastern and Western Empire (the latter to collapse around the time of great construction in Ravenna), but the Eastern Empire (Constantinople) survived until 1453.

And so, on our first visit of the day, to Basilica do San Vitale and the adjacent Mausolea do Galla Placidia, simply blew us away. If you have a moment, take a look at the slideshow below.

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The East coast of Italy is, apparently, not an area much visited by foreign tourists, but heavily appreciated by Italians. To say that the town was swamped by schoolkids (mostly doing that bored-teenager-doing-cellphones … do Italian kids go to normal school or is it all the experiential crap?) is a huge understatement. In any case, it (mostly) brought a sense of life to the town, and the market, where we sat down for our most expensive coffee yet (€2). Markets here are never boring, and never cheap – having spent €5 on about 7 pieces of liquorice is indicative. Parmigiana cheese at €38 per kilo is way more expensive than in the supermarket or even artisanal shops – but very cool!

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Feeling close to churched out we sat and did some reading on the history of the churches in the area. It got very complex trying to understand the Arian Heresy and their subsequent persecution, which has a direct impact on the church artworks. As the Arians were in / out / in / persecuted to oblivion, so the church work changed to reflect this, with mosaics and frescoes demolished, overlain or altered to reflect current orthodoxy. I’m trying to make sense of Arianism (God created Jesus, therefore Jesus did not previously exist) as opposed to conventional dogma (Jesus has always existed) – well, your life depended on having the correct answer! Fortunately the congress at Nicaea sorted things out like which stories to include (Jesus turning water into wine was OK, Jesus lengthening wood so that Joseph could finish his project not OK so left out) etc etc. Hmmm. Feeling enlightened we proceeded to the Battistero Neoniano and Museo Arcivescovile, and then finished off with the Basilica Sant’Apollinare Nuovo. We skipped the other four Basilica ……

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Calendar from 6th C, determining when Easter could fall (Rule: Not on the same date as Jewish Easter.)

All in all a wonderful day. We are parked in a large lot filled with dead and decaying campervans, some of which remain inhabited. Just finished an excellent Belgian Trappist beer (those guys are profitably employed!), hot water is on for showers, dinner is salami & cheese (after a €5 lunch) and great, cheap, Italian wine. Sun has just set (18:24) in a gorgeous blue sky …

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Mosaic, with brilliant colours retained from 6th C! Basilica di Sant’Apollinare Nuovo